Wine Highlights: James Suckling Great Wines World San Francisco 2025
By Taylor Rausch
March 31, 2025
Disjointed footsteps clamored against the Fort Mason pier in downtown San Francisco in early March as people ambled about the farmer’s market. The crowd thinned and bulged as patrons exchanged their freshly-harvested fruit for a cold beer at Radhaus, giving those already in the beer hall a chance at the market. The sun was out but the wind whipped and white caps swelled, and to the west the arches of the famous bridge reached for the skyline, while Alcatraz Island remained distant and isolated straight ahead.
I watched the Sunday bustling as I stood in a line wrapped around the Fort Mason Center of the Gateway Pavilion. Surely I wasn’t alone in hearing the echoes of the cheer competition inside. Those at attention, like myself, were possibly even doing a little cheer of their own, as we eagerly awaited to taste a selection of newly-released wines from some of the finest producers in the world according to James Suckling’s palate.
It was almost time for the James Suckling Great Wines World 2025 San Francisco showcase.
When able to enter, the 2,800 of us scattered about, referencing our lists for where to first begin tasting. A difficult task, because how is one expected to taste the whole world in only three hours?
And when the list includes Domaine De Chevalier Bordeaux blends, Burgundian Pinot Noir from Maison Louis Latour Grand Cru, a Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva from Familia Fernández Rivera, and Monteverro Super Tuscans, how could a starting point – or better yet – a finish line be imagined?
Unobtainable. Not solely because of the disorientation by opulent wine that is usually out of reach for the modern enthusiast. But because there were 135 booths to master, and charming, smaller producers like Ao Yun (Ow-Yoon) from China poured for a line that never ended and that I unfortunately didn’t have time to be a part of.
It would seem the host James Suckling, and his team of 25, had once again done a favor for everyone by tirelessly tasting and ranking thousands of wines. What a bleak life.
The master of ceremonies, James Suckling, needed no introduction for the wine aficionados and trade members under the pavilion’s roof. But for those unaware of the name, he and his company, JamesSuckling.com, are influential to the business of wine ratings. You have likely seen the numbers advertised on bottles in any wine shop or grocery store or on wine menus.
The 100-point rating system, which, for 40 years, has inspired Suckling’s own rating system, actually starts at 50 points. Ratings are often associated with adjectives, such as “good” and “above average”. This structure categorizes those adjectives starting at 50 points and applies a superior adjective as rankings increase by increments of four-to-nine points, depending. See the breakdown of the traditional the system below.
50-59 wines are flawed and undrinkable
60-69 wines are flawed and not recommended but drinkable
70-79 wines are flawed and taste average
80-84 wines are ‘above average’ to ‘good’
85-90 wines are ‘good’ to ‘very good’
90-94 wines are ‘superior’ to ‘exceptional’
95-100 wines are benchmark examples or ‘classic’
However, it is not uncommon for review-based publications — Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast, Decanter — to create their own spin on the traditional. Such is the case with JamesSuckling.com.
In accordance with all ranking systems, Suckling’s company associates adjectives to wines, but also ties in a letter grade, particularly to wines ranked 88 points or higher. However, unlike other publications, providing wines with an adjective — and in the case with JamesSuckling.com, a letter grade — begins at 88 points. Anything rated less than is clumped into a singular category — “cautionary.”
A score of less than 88, the wine might still be worth buying but proceed with caution
88-90 the wines receive a (B)
90-95 the wines receive an (A) or “Outstanding”
95-100 the wines receive an (A+), or “Must Buy”
“A wine that we rate 90 points or more is outstanding (A). It's a wine we want to drink a glass of and is an outstanding purchase. If we rate a wine 95 points or more (A+), it is a must buy and a bottle that we want to drink in its entirety! If we rate a wine less than 88 points, it might still be worth buying but proceed with caution. I certainly wouldn't recommend spending your money on anything rated lower. Wines rated from barrel, or unfinished wines, are rated with two-point ranges such as 90-91 or 92-93,” according to Suckling, via JamesSuckling.com.
His reviews, much like those by Wine Enthusiast or Wine Spectator, are revered. And for one day only in San Francisco, he amassed a group that cherishes his insights.
The showcase did not highlight any wines ranked lower than 92 points. So as a wine industry professional who admires his scoring, how fantastic when the lowest-marked wines were above average. But that only made it harder to slow down and appreciate 92 points when booths just a side step to the left were showcasing wines rated 98, 99, and 100 – not something many average Joes typically get to taste on a normal weekend.
When you trust the wine authority who is claiming these scores, you lean in and try to decipher what stands out. But you also begin to think to yourself, ‘these are labeled great, but what do I like?’
The answer was hard to dilute. But I did my best to seize six that remained distinguished from the rest even after the showcase ended.
Variety: 100% Kerner
Region: Trentino-Alto Adige Valle Isarco DOC, Italy
Rating: 93
The winery of Cantina Valle Isarco was a fun stop for me because they are disruptive. By that I mean they do not focus on the grapes commercially known by consumers. Their booth highlighted the German-creation Kerner, a white grape that is a crossing of the red and white varietals Trollinger and Riesling. Due to its decrease in popularity, the amount of plantings has followed the market, with the majority of vines remaining in Germany. Which is why the chance to taste one from Alto Adige, Italy was intriguing.
The 2022 ‘Aristos’ Kerner was impressive and refreshing. The nurtured and strident finish was led by great florality and notes of lime, lemon zest, honeysuckle, and minerality.
The prestigious co-operative of Cantina Valle Isarco is made up of 11 members over 130 municipalities at the northernmost point of Alto Adige just south of the Austrian Alps. It is here where the climate, altitude, and soils unite to create the perfect location for growing this varietal.
Varietes: 77% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Valle de Cachapoal, Chile
Rating: 100
The 100-point Vik Valle De Cachapoal ‘VIK’ 2021 from Valle de Cachapoal in central Chile was a smash. Made of 77 percent Cabernet Franc and 23 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, but don’t label this as just any red blend. Full bodied, the tannins had a velvety structure with a finish that required me to take a break from tasting all together. I didn’t want to try anymore that Suckling had to offer until after the finish slowed down – it just kept on kicking.
Varietes: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 6% Syrah, and 5% Petit Verdot
Region: Yunnan, China
Rating: 98
I thought to myself, Chinese wine? What?
However, Ao Yun (Ow-Yoon), a subsidiary of LVMH, has taken all of the greatest care to create world-renowned wine. The booth was packed, abnormally packed – the line for tasting circled and snaked through other crowded booths. They were the first to sell out.
Ao Yun’s Shangri-La 2021 red blend was expressive and delightful. With 40 percent of the juice being fermented in stoneware amphorae from Sichuan, China, this wine was complex with notes of chocolate, cedar spice, tobacco, paprika, and deep black fruits while remaining velvety.
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Location: Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley AVA, California
Rating: 97
Do not skip this winery when you travel to California.
Martin Ray Vineyards and Winery has locations in the California AVAs of the Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, and Napa Valley.
Their 2021 Cabernet, coming from Diamond Mountain District vineyard in the Napa Valley AVA, had aromas ranging from the brightest red fruit to a pleasant earthiness. You can tell the roots for this plot go deep into the ground and really penetrate the bedrock. Impressive expression of the region with great tannins.
I missed out on their Pinot Noir Brut Rose from Russian River Valley, but between you and me, let's make it a goal for one of us to find it in the future and discuss.
Varietal: 100% Chardonnay
Location: Adrianna Vineyard, Mendoza, Argentina
Rating: 100
The Chardonnays of Catena Zapata’s are straight sorcery. Potentially the best wine at the event.
There are plenty of aromatic whites that handle themselves across a broad array of flavors, aromas and body, but very rarely do you find a Chardonnay that has a wonderful bouquet of the unassumed. This Mendoza Chardonnay progressed in animation with green fruit, unripe passion fruit, spearmint, green curry and coconut husk undertown. Bright acidity, full bodied and some minerality, the 2022 ‘White Bones’, Chardonnay was explosive and finished dry.
As stated by Catena Zapata, the name ‘White Bones’ “refers to the soil underneath the Adrianna Vineyard’s rows, which is layered with calcareous deposits and limestone as well as fossilized animal bones - remnants of a river that used to pass through the region.”
Varietal: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon
Location: Pessac-Léognan AOC, Bordeaux, France
Rating: 98
Crème de la crème. The 2015 Pessac-Leognan Blanc could not have been more beautifully prepared. The citrus fruit of lemon and lime intertwined to create their own yin-yang symbol. My colleague noticed a reductive note, but I was unable to catch it. The palate had power and direction. Aging the wine on oak had enhanced its length and integrity. A Bordeaux masterpiece.
I made sure to stop by Domaine De Chevalier’s booth at the beginning of the event and at the end for just one last drop. I could not get enough.