Chelan, Washington: Sip With a View

By Cole Swanson
August 2, 2024

CHLEAN, WA – The town of Chelan (Sh-laan), Washington state is a beautiful place to unwind, especially in the summer, even when the August heat hits you the moment you open your car door on arrival. About three hours east of Seattle, the quaint town in North-central Washington surrounds a glacial lake of the same name – turquoise and translucent where boats buoy and swimmers cool off.

On the foothills of the mountains that enclose this vacation destination are tasting rooms in abundance, such as Tsillan Cellars and Cairdeas Winery. These two, along with the 41 others in this area, serve wines made from grapes grown within the Lake Chelan American Viticultural Area (AVA) and those from other sub-AVAs of the Columbia Valley AVA. The wines of the Lake Chelan AVA, however, stand apart from the rest of the Columbia Valley thanks to distinct climatic impacts, allowing it to grow grapes for which Washington state is not normally known.

Of all the tasting rooms in Chelan, I only had time to visit five during my two-day vacation. The most notable, in my opinion, were Tsillan Cellars, pronounced like Chelan, and Cairdeas Winery (Kardiss). Their white and reds were discernible from most others I’ve tasted in Washington.

Tsillan Cellars

Perhaps it was the Tuscany-inspired design of Tsillan Cellars that captured my heart. I’d say anything with a terracotta edifice will do that. But all their wines – the reds, whites and the rosé – also caught my attention. Overall, they presented minerality and prickly sensations — largely due to vineyard soil composition and proximity to the lake — which added great texture and complexity. Their estate white wines stood out the most. Their dry Riesling and Gewurztraminer blew me away with their distinct florality and acidity, and I could have easily enjoyed a bottle of either on that hot day.

Cairdeas Winery

My next stop was Cairdeas Winery. I had been advised to go by everyone who knew about my trip. I’m glad I did. More modern than Tsillan Cellars, the patio on which I first lounged, before the heat pushed me inside, was surrounded by estate vines, trellised low enough to see the horizon drawn by the lake. Instead of the whites stopping me in my tracks, it was the reds, specifically the 2021 Concrete Syrah made from whole cluster grapes. It reminded me of Passover dinner at my parent’s house. The complexities were unique – herbaceous, salinic and savory. It was a wine I wanted to continue to drink so I could detect all of its unexpected qualities.

It was after tasting at these two wineries that I understood why Lake Chelan stands as one of 18 sub-AVAs of the Columbia Valley AVA – where about 99 percent of all Washington state wine grapes are grown; the other one percent being in the Puget Sound AVA.  

Unlike most other AVAs of the Columbia Valley, Lake Chelan AVA is able to grow cooler climate grapes, such as Pinot Noir, as well as bright, dry Riesling and medium-bodied Syrah. This is the result of the harmony of the “lake effect,” planting vines at higher elevations, and unique soils. 

Generally speaking, the entirety of the Columbia Valley – Lake Chelan AVA included – has an arid warm climate with little rainfall that requires irrigation. This is why Washington is known for its bold, ageable, juicy reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, rather than Pinot Noir. However, Chelan receives breezes from the lake while vines are planted at higher elevations than notable sub-AVAs of the Columbia Valley – Horse Heaven Hills and Yakima Valley.

These factors help to cool the vineyards and elongate harvest, allowing for the success of Pinot Noir and vibrant Riesling.   

Lake Chelan’s soils also differentiate the wines within this sub-AVA from the rest of the Columbia Valley. Non-water-retentive granite predominates alongside volcanic pumice. The commanding soil of other sub-AVAs of the Columbia Valley is water-retentive flood-induced Basalt that is more fertile. Granite reflects heat, harmonizing with the aforementioned cooling effects. Basalt cools the vines and does not reflect heat from the sun, which is ideal for a desert-like climate.    

The non-water retentive soil known as “glacial till” helps this cooler climate retain heat so grapes can still ripen fully. This soil type is of coarse, sandy sediment and gravel, which is the result of alpine glaciers cutting through and forming Chelan over millions of years. In addition to retaining heat, it requires vines to maneuver to find water in the earth below, creating rustic and mineral flavors. The eruption of Glacier Peak about 13,000 years ago provided pumice. Pumice is nutrient-rich and holds water well. But unlike Basalt it drains quicker due to its sponge-like holes that help to aerate the soil, ensuring the vines don’t become water-logged.

The combination of these three climatic influences is what provides the wines of this sub-AVA with more minerality and earthier qualities than those of the Columbia Valley, which are juicer and fuller-bodied.

AVA, or American Viticultural Area, is a title specific to the United States. It is awarded to grape-growing regions within an area whose climatic influences are unique to others around it, and therefore provide differentiating qualities in the grapes. The same goes for sub-AVAs. These are smaller regions of the umbrella that differentiate from the whole. 

As of 2024, there are a total of 21 AVAs in Washington state. 

Should one prefer a destination winery in Washington state that is surrounded by more than just farmland, Lake Chelan has you covered. The small-bonded town contrasts the rest of the Eastern Washington wine region. Modern, but still family-owned, shops line the mile-long main street and sit beside bars and restaurants, some of which are open late enough for the night owls. Everything is walkable, and as I passed the many visitors and residents I understood the appeal of slowing down and enjoying the beauty around me – in nature and in lifestyle. About five miles in any direction are tasting rooms with views of the lake, where I sipped and contemplated early retirement.