An afternoon At
Cairdeas Winery in Chelan

By Cole Swanson
August 2, 2024

MANSON, WA – Rather than sleeping horses or goats, one can enjoy wine inside this barn. Its wood-paneled exterior and sharply slanted metal roof enclose the tasting room of Cairdeas (Kardiss) Winery. One could lounge inside their intimate space on mid century chairs that sit low to the ground, forcing relaxation. Or on their patio, which is surrounded by estate vines trellised low enough to see the horizon drawn by Lake Chelan. I chose the latter before the August heat pushed me inside.

I had been advised to taste at Cairdeas by everyone who knew about my two-day vacation to Chelan (Sh-laan), and I’m glad I did. Complex and ageable, these wines required me to actively taste and assess their intricacies, which to me is one sign of a quality tasting experience.          

Technically in the town of Manson — a 10-minute drive from downtown Chelan — Cairdeas Winery is a small, family-owned artisan winery that focuses on wines inspired by the Rhône Valley of France, such as Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cunoise for reds and Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Grenache Blanc for whites.

For just $20.00 I was able to taste five wines: 2023 Grenache Blanc, 2023 Rosé, 2021 Concrete Syrah, 2021 Tri, and 2021 Consonance.

2023 Grenache Blanc - $23/Bottle

100% Grenache Blanc
Region: Boushey Vineyards – Yakima Valley AVA

A fantastic opening to the tasting. I got notes of gooseberry, pear, lemon, and a little bit of bell pepper and salinity that added a nice complexity to the soft palate, which was juicy like a Starburst. 

This Grenache Blanc was aged for one year in Drunk Turtle amphora, made of concrete, terracotta, and Italian marble. Amphora is the original vessel in which wine was fermented and aged, originally made of clay and/or terracotta. This process began about 6,000 years ago in the current-day country of Georgia, and is in resurgence. It is considered to impart qualities from both steel tank and barrel aging. Like steel tanks, it does not impart any flavors to the wine like a barrel would, keeping the grape varietal flavors prominent. Like a barrel, it oxygenates due to the porous nature of the vessel. Overall, this creates a wine that is varietal-forward and more complex than just aging in steel.

2023 Rosé - $28/bottle

50% Grenache Noir and 50% Syrah
Region: Meek Vineyard – Yakima Valley AVA

I thoroughly enjoyed this wine. There was a prickly sensation that I immediately loved because it added great complexity, helping to balance the notes of strawberry, rose petal, and gooseberry (reminding me of the Grenache Blanc in that way). Incredibly approachable and almost too easy to drink.

This rosé is the result of a process called “direct pressing,” one of the four ways to make rosé. Like with all rosé, the skin of the grapes were in contact with the juice of the grapes. This is how you get the pink color; the longer the two are in contact, the deeper the pink. Direct press, however, produces the lightest color of all four methods because the skins and juice are in contact for an extremely short amount of time before they are separated, similar to how Provence, France crafts their rosés.

2021 Concrete Syrah - $46/bottle

100% Syrah - whole cluster
Region: Lawrence Vineyard – Royal Slope AVA
93pts – Sean Sullivan

One of my favorite things about funky wines (that doesn’t mean bad) is I want to keep sipping to try and taste all of the unexpected unique flavors.

There was a lot to take in with this one. Concentrated blackberry and blueberry intertwined with a savoriness, like smoking meat over a campfire. Bitter, dried herbs – parsley and oregano – mingled with sea salt, like I had dipped my tongue in the ocean – it reminded me of Passover dinner at my parent’s house. As it opened up, bright red currant and raspberry waved hello. This wine is young and tight, meaning it has the ability to age and evolve into…I don’t know what; but I want to find out. 

This whole cluster syrah was fermented and aged in concrete. Whole cluster is a technique where instead of destemming grapes, winemakers ferment grape bunches with the grapes still attached to their stems. This is a common practice in the Northern Rhone when fermenting Syrah, as it enhances notes of spice and savoriness. Like amphora, during the aging process, concrete oxygenates the wine without imparting any flavors. Compared to a barrel or steel tank, the fermentation is more controlled. Concrete heats up and cools down slowly, allowing for winemakers to effectively regulate fermentation temperatures.

2021 Tri - $54/bottle

74% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre, 4% Grenache Noir
Region: Boushey, Meek and Lawrence Vineyards – Columbia Valley AVA
93pts – Sean Sullivan, Owen Bargreen, Wine Advocate, and Decanter

My favorite from the moment I smelled it. Soft blueberry with meat aromas that weren’t as intense as the Concrete Syrah, but could develop as this wine ages. A silky and soft palate that was fuller-bodied. Blackberry, cassis, black maraschino cherry led to a long finish.

This blend is known as a GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) – or in this case a SMG. Anyway, the acronym GSM is ubiquitous with Southern Rhone wines. It is in this part of France where these grapes thrive. Grenache typically dominates blends, and can stand on its own at times. Like Mourvedre, it needs a warm climate to thrive and therefore is only planted in the Southern Rhone, not the Northern. Syrah is able to be planted in both warm and moderate climates, which is why it grows in both the Northern and Southern Rhone.

2021 Consonance - $56/ Bottle

70% Syrah and 30% Petite Syrah
Region: Boushey & Lawrence Vineyards (Syrah) and Inland Desert Vineyard (Petite Sirah) 
94pts - Sean Sullivan and Decanter, Decanter, and International Wine Report

The blend of these two grapes gave space for the definition of consonance: a musical term for a group of notes coming together to make a harmonious sound. Dark fruits such as blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry harmonized with earthiness and slight salinity. The palate was smooth and silky. Definitely ageable – I’d say about five years and it’ll taste more developed.

Wait… Syrah and Petite Syrah are the same grapes aren’t they? One is just smaller than the other, right? It would be helpful for their names to be different since they are different grapes. Syrah and Peloursin, a rare French varietal, are the parents of Petite Sirah. Unlike Syrah, which has moderate tannins and acidity, Petite Sirah is pronounced with both. This provides balance to the Consonance blend and helps with ageability. 

Cairdeas is ancient Gaelic for friendship, goodwill, or alliance, and is considered the foundation of this winery. Family owned and run, Charlie Lybecker makes the wine, while his wife Lacey is President and “The Glue,” according to Team Cairdeas. The winery opened its doors in 2009 in Seattle’s SoDo Urban Works, and in 2012, they opened their second location in Manson aftering being mesmerized by the beauty of Chelan. 

In addition to sourcing from vineyards throughout the Columbia Valley AVA, they have their own vineyard in the Lake Chelan AVA, Cairdeas Vineyards.